Q: What information do I need prior to meeting with a designer?
A: Whether you are building a new home or remodeling your existing home, there are
a few things to think about before you meet with a designer. The best
way to prepare for the initial meeting is to have a set of plans, or a
hand-drawn sketch of your existing space. We would also suggest looking
through magazines and cutting out pictures of things you like. It could
be the cabinet color, the door style, or the layout of the kitchen.
Whatever catches your eye, tear out or mark the page.
Think about the "must haves" and then of course the "wish list" of what you
would like. This includes appliances, cabinet accessories, glass
accents, etc. All of these items will help us understand your needs and
lifestyle. You will also need to have a general idea of your budget so
we can give you the best product for your money. Click here to fill out the planning guide form; please fax in the form or bring the form to your consultation.
Q: How do I clean my cabinets?
A: The materials & method employed depends on the type of cabinetry. Click your type of cabinet below to see specific instructions.
Dusting: Dust cabinets frequently with a soft lint-free cloth. You can dampen the cloth slightly with water or a spray-type dust remover.
Spills: Clean spills immediately. Use a clean cloth and mild soap if necessary. Wipe dry with a clean soft cloth.
Cleaning: There are a number of products available for your wood cleaning needs. We recommend Guardsman. Their products are available at many stores nationwide including Bed Bath & Beyond and Ace Hardware.
Polishing: We recommend that you wash and polish cabinets once or twice each year. Use a light coat of quality furniture polish.
Don’ts: Never use detergents, soap pads or steel wool on your cabinetry. These harsh abrasives will mar the wood finish. Additionally, we recommend that you avoid the use of paste wax and polishes that contain silicone; the wax buildup is difficult to remove and will leave a residue that attracts dust.
Periodically clean the interior and exterior surfaces of doors using a damp, soft cloth. Tough stains may be cleaned using a soft cloth dampened with a “Formula 409” or “Simple Green” type cleanser.
You can use any commercial glass cleaner to clean the glass. While cleaning mounted glass, be careful not to damage the finish of the door and cabinet parts while cleaning. Additionally, the glass can be cleaned while mounted on the door, or can be removed for better access.
To remove the glass panel, carefully loosen the screws and lift panel out. The door glass is tempered to resist chipping and shattering. However, all glass is fragile so handle carefully.
Don’ts: Never spray glass cleaner directly onto glass or cabinet parts. Glass cleaner seeping into areas behind the mullions may discolor the wood. Instead, spray a small amount of cleaner onto a lint-free cloth or paper towel, then wipe the glass.
Q: What should I do to protect the integrity of my cabinetry with regard to heat-producing appliances?
A: We recommend that you do not mount heat-producing appliances (such as coffeemakers and toaster ovens) beneath cabinets.
Excess heat and moisture from these appliances can damage cabinets.
Q: I have a self-cleaning oven; do I need to take any special precautions before running the cycle?
A:
Self-cleaning ovens are cleaned through the use of intense heat. If the heat gasket does not seal properly, heat may escape from the oven. Cabinet components installed near the oven may suffer finish or surface damage. To minimize risk of damage during cleaning cycles, we recommend that you remove doors and drawers from cabinets that are above and adjacent to a self-cleaning oven.
Q: How much weight will my cabinets hold?
A:
Properly installed cabinets can safely support an evenly distributed load of 15 pounds per square foot of shelf, tray and drawer space, up to a maximum of 50 pounds. Be sure that you load all cabinet bottoms, shelves and trays evenly.
Q: What are the different types of countertops available, and how do I know which one to choose?
A:
There are as many countertops to choose from as there are door styles, finishes, and colors. Your countertop selection is very important to the overall look and feel of your new kitchen. Click any of the following countertop types to see more information about them.
Natural stone has a majesty which cannot be replicated. Natural stone can have varying degrees of porosity, and may require sealer on a regular basis, although when properly maintained will retain its beauty for many years. Natural stone is more heat tolerant than other countertop surfaces.
Quartz is an elegant alternative to granite. It is as durable as granite, requires no resealing, is highly resistant to heat, scratches and stains, and comes in a huge variety of colors.
Soapstone, unlike other natural stones, is impervious to moisture. It has been used for many years in laboratories where endurance is critical. Soapstone is characterized by a very dark green to black coloration with varying degrees of veining. Practically indestructible, soapstone won't burn or stain, requires very little maintenance, and adds value and elegance to any kitchen.
Wood countertops no longer mean just butcher block. There are plenty of style options involving wood species and edge treatments and even the option of using reclaimed wood for those who want an eco-friendly countertop. There is some maintenance involved to keep them looking good however so it's worth investigating further to know if it's right for your kitchen.
Well-known by brand names such as Formica®, laminate is the most cost effective countertop material and comes with either a rolled (post-form) or square edge. There are many patterns and colors available with some imitating stone or wood surfaces, and more recently, several textures are available.
There are numerous brand name solid surface countertops available, with compositions unique to each manufacturer. Corian® is the most widely known brand name for solid surface countertops, but all brands are non-porous material, impervious to most household products. Scratches and damages can be either buffed out or the damaged section replaced by a certified fabricator.
Many tiles are made to be used for countertops. There will always be grout lines between the tiles. A tile specialist can help you choose the tile best suited for your needs.
A relative newcomer to the residential kitchen industry, concrete countertops have been used in commercial applications for many years. Reinforced concrete is durable, can be made to any shape, and can be dyed to a variety of colors. Especially interesting is the ability to mix decorative items (glass, marbles, shells, etc.) or have relief applied to create stunning colors and patterns.
The countertop favored by restaurants around the world for serviceability and longevity, stainless steel is making its way into people’s homes. It is heat tolerant and non-porous. Stainless steel will scratch with use, although many find this characteristic to be part of the charm of the material.
Cabinet Glossary - Terms and Definitions
Concealed hinge - A hinge that is not visible on the front of a cabinet door. Concealed hinges are attached to the inside surface of the door. Custom - Custom cabinets are cabinets made to a designer's or customer's specifications, with no limitations on sizing, materials and options. They are made-to-order. Dovetail - A method of wood joinery used to connect two pieces that join each other, typically at right angles. The edge of each piece is cut with a number of V-shaped notches that interlock with the adjoining piece forming a very strong joint. Engineered wood - A wood product that is manufactured to enhance the overall qualities of the wood material itself or, to salvage byproducts of wood processing into useful material. Plywood and MDF are two examples of engineered wood products. Framed - A cabinet design that uses a 'face-frame' which is typically a wood frame attached to the front edges of the cabinet box. Frameless - A cabinet design that does not use a frame on the front outside edges of the cabinet box. The front of the cabinet box is formed by the edges of the top, bottom and side panels of the cabinet box. The cabinet door typically covers these edges when closed. Full-inset - A cabinet design whereby the doors fit inside of the face frame when closed (rather than overlapping and sitting on top of the face frame). Full overlay - A cabinet design whereby the cabinet door or drawer front covers the entire face frame so that only the cabinet door is seen with no part of the face frame visible. (Also see "overlay"). Furniture board - Furniture board is another term for particle board. The term was coined in reference to the particle board that's used in the furniture industry. Glaze - A coating applied over the cabinet stain that enhances or changes the color of the base coat. Medium density fiberboard (MDF) - A wood-based product that's produced by the combination of very small wood fibers and a glue, resin or similar bonding agent. MDF can be more easily shaped than products like particle board due to the consistency of the material formed by the small fibers. MDF can be used for shelves, doors (typically painted or covered with melamine) and other cabinet parts. Melamine - A plastic-based, sheet material similar to laminate that is applied to the exterior of cabinets. The substrate or material underneath the melamine is usually medium density fiberboard, particle board or plywood. Overlay - Overlay refers to the amount of face frame that is covered by the cabinet door or drawer front. Partial overlay - A cabinet design whereby the cabinet door or drawer front partially overlaps the face frame. When the drawers/doors are closed part of the face frame remains visible. (Also see "overlay"). Plywood - A wood product made up of several layers of wood with the grain direction running at different angles with respect to each other. This orientation gives plywood greater strength and stability in comparison to solid wood. Rail - The horizontal pieces or members of a face frame or door frame (in contrast to a "stile" which is the vertical member of the frame). Semi-custom - Cabinets manufactured within a range of specific sizes and styles but with a greater number of options and customization available as compared to straight stock cabinets. Stile - The vertical pieces of a face frame or door frame (in contrast to the "rails" which are the horizontal members of the frame). Stock cabinets - Cabinets that are manufactured in standard sizes with a fixed range of options such as available wood types, etc. Stock cabinets are pre-manufactured and "off the shelf" products. Thermofoil - A thin vinyl sheet that is formed over a wood or wood-product substrate and bonded to the substrate. Thermofoil provides a surface that's easy to clean due to the low-maintenance requirements of the vinyl material. Veneer - A very thin layer of real wood that is applied over another substrate material such as particle board or plywood. Veneers are used on the sides of exposed cabinets (for example, on the end of a run of cabinets) and on the interior surfaces of the cabinet boxes. In cabinetry, wood veneers are used to cover plywood or particle board on external surfaces to provide the outward aesthetics of solid wood without the cost or other drawbacks associated with using solid wood.
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